Kids Table - Part 2

After all legs and table top dried overnight, they were ready to be finished off.

After scraping the excess glue off the tabletop with an old chisel, I squared it up using the sliding table on the table saw at 24".

The legs had little or no excess glue so they went directly over to the planer where they were all dimensioned to 1 7/8". Next the miter saw was used to trim them all down to 21".

It's best to cut mortises before tenons when using a fixed mortise size, so it was time to cut the mortises in the legs that would receive the tenons on the end of the stretchers. In the past I've made up a custom jig for my router and then use a spiral bit and a template guide to cut the mortise. I decided to try just using the router table this time and skip the custom jig to save time - I'm glad I did.

With a 1 7/8" leg, the center point of the leg would be 1/2" + 7/16" = 15/16". Subtract half of the spiral bit of 3/8, 15/16" - 3/16" = 12/16" = 3/4". That's the distance I set the edge of the bit from the router table fence. After testing on an offcut from one of the legs to make sure the mortise was centered I was ready to go. I marked the stop location on the fence to give me a 2" mortise and went to work. I set the bit at about 3/8" in height for the first pass and 3/4" for the second. I slid each leg into the bit along the fence and easily cut the mortises. Since the leg was pressed up against the fence where the dust collection is I clamped a shop vac to the fence in line with the bit to catch the shavings to save on cleanup.

The stretchers were next up. Over to the table saw where used the end of one of my still too long stretchers to set the height of the blade. I use my normal combination blade (Delta 35-7640) to make the first cuts for the tenons, then switch to a dado blade to clean out the rest. After getting the height set I sized down the stretchers on the miter saw and then it was quick work to cut the tenons on the stretchers.


After all the cutting was complete - a quick check to make sure everything fit properly.

Railroad Clock Kit - Finished?

I got up early this morning to finish off the railroad clock kit that I started a long time ago. I applied the oil and poly about two months ago so it was high time that I install the hardware and get this clock completed!

The mortises for the hinges should have been cut before I applied the finish to the clock. Since I waited until after I was extra careful cutting them as there would be no finish to cover my mistakes. I don't cut many hinge mortises but I took my time to cut these and am pleased with out they turned out.


I traced around the outside of the hinges with an sharp utility knife, then followed with a 1/2" chisel to clearly define the outside edges of the mortise. A 1/4" chisel was used to cut diagonally across the corners, which were cut round after the rest of the mortise was completed. The 1/2" chisel was used to cut out the mortise to the line that it had just cut.

The hinge was test fit and any extra material was removed to until it was flush.


Next I needed to drill the hole for the magnetic catch and metal disk for the door. Both called for a odd sized drill bit that I didn't have (13/32s maybe?). I used a 1/2" bit as that was my smallest larger sized bit. The magnetic catch is 1/2" in height and was too loose in the hole so I secured it with some plastic cement - if that doesn't hold I'll use some epoxy. The metal disk had a nail on the back so it held in place in the 1/2" hole without any problem.

After mounting the clock mechanism I added the clock face, secured with double-sided tape. Shortly after adding the hands I noted a small problem - the clock face was 180 degrees off. Oops. I peeled it back and slid a ruler under to get the very effective tape unstuck, then mounted it correctly with more double sided tape.


Now it's done - except for the glass. After I get the glass cut, it should be an easy install and then hang it up.

Kids Table - Part 1

We need a new table for the kids to use - should I go to just go to Ikea and buy one or can you easily build one?" Rosemary asked me this a few nights ago and I was immediately energized into working on a new project.

Of course there was no way we were buying a table from Ikea when I had a workshop full of tools in the backyard and plenty of extra wood! I came up with a plan in my head the next day while I was out for a run and later than night I got to work.

The table size was based off one we already have - a pine table that someone bought when Joshua was born. The new table would be the same size but built of Oak and Walnut. The top would be 24" square and the legs 21" high. With the dimensions decided, it was time to pick out the wood. I dug through the pile of Oak and found a piece a little over 8" that I could edge glue up for the top.

I made this sketchup drawing after I'd already finished the table - but here's what the completed table will look like :

The Tabletop

I set the planer up to spew the shavings onto the driveway, with infeed and outfeed tables to help guide the wood. With this setup I always lose a few inches off the end of the board to planer snipe, but I plan for this so it's no big deal. After the planing is complete it is easy to shovel up the shavings into a barrel - much easier than emptying the dust collector. In fact I usually don't even have to do the shoveling myself - Joshua loves to do it.

After planning down the top board to 7/8", I chopped it up on the mitre saw at 25" to get the three pieces that I'd need for the glue-up. Over to the planer where I cleaned up one edge, then the tablesaw to get a parallel edge.

I lined the pieces up and marked for biscuits, then cut three biscuit slots in each piece to help align them for the glue-up. Joshua joined me at this point to supervise the construction of his new table. After applying glue and inserting the biscuits I clamped the tabletop up tight and stood it in the corner to dry overnight.

The legs will be 1 7/8" thick and since I only have 4/4 stock on hand I needed to glue up a couple of pieces for each leg. For a kids table I decided not to do anything complicated but just leave the edge grain showing on each leg. I figure it'll soon be covered in crayon and pencil marks anyways.

Before closing up through the night Joshua and I planed and jointed some more oak for the legs, I cut out 8 - 2 1/8" x 22" blanks, then glued them up with the rest of my clamps. I'll leave them to dry overnight before finishing them up with the joiner and planer.

Quack! Quack!

Joshua and I spent a bit of time in the workshop while Mommy was out with Lauren. First we cut an ugly looking lopsided 'tennis racket' out of some 3/8" plywood on the bandsaw, then over to the scroll saw to cut up some scrap pine.


I drew up a quick duck on the pine and cut it into a little jigsaw puzzle. Both Joshua and Lauren like playing with it. It was first the jigsaw puzzle I've made - Joshua is now asking for a tractor or elephant jigsaw puzzle.

Craftsman Mailbox - Step 5

I've been too busy to post updates here, but I have been working some woodworking and house projects.

The mailbox had to wait for a week or two, but it's finally got two coats of stain and now is just waiting for two coats of finish before being mounted. I put on one coat of Minwax Provincial oil stain, let it dry overnight then rub it out a bit with a synthetic steel wool pad before putting on the next coat.


I've had another project waiting to be stained as well, probably for about 3 months, so I put two coats of stain on it as well. It's a chair that will be hinged in the seat to fold over and become a small step-stool.



All the finish was applied in my new finishing room - the loft above my workshop which has been cleaned up enough to be used as a finish area. I need to add a fan to increase ventilation when I am using oil-based stains.